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Class

As the peninsula south of San Francisco morphed from orchards to computers, the name changed from Valley of Heart’s Delight to Silicon Valley. As techies replaced farmers, with few exceptions, property values in the Valley rocketed.

Redwood City was one of the exceptions. For years, the city was a backwater in a fast-flowing stream.

No more. Today, Redwood City is a rapidly growing municipality that has preserved its historic Broadway downtown, now home to old brick buildings, a leafy canopy, and to restaurants of every stripe and ethnicity.

At the center of the district is The Courthouse 2021, the first and only restaurant on Broadway serving classic American cuisine. It’s fine-dining personified, from service to setting, price to portion, freshness to flavor. Down from San Francisco or up from San Jose, it’s worth the trip.

The menu cleverly divides offerings by their origin: Green Earth, Charcoal & Wood, From The Sky, From The Sea, From The Hoof.

  • Among the stars … From Wood: Courthouse Signature Flatbread (wood-oven dried tomatoes, fresh buratta, basil, garlic puree and truffle honey: $14.)
  • From Sea: Pan roasted day boat scallops on saffron & pea risotto, $32. It comes with sturgeon caviar, which is fine on its own but detracts from the ultra-fresh taste of the large, plump scallops; ask for it to served on the side.
  • And from Dessert: Chocolate Molten Cake with vanilla Crème Anglaise, candied orange zest, muddled raspberry and bourbon crème $14.

Courthouse 2021’s setting features muted wall coverings, white tablecloths, high ceilings and Mediterranean stonework. Service is informed, involved (but not hovering), formal (by California standards) and polite. At meal’s end, you feel ever so slightly more important than you really are. A sure sign of class.

 

The Courthouse 2021 Restaurant: 2021 Broadway, Redwood City. Monday through Sunday from 3 to 11 p.m. Street parking and public lots are readily available. www.thecourthouse2021.com. For reservations, also via OpenTable.com, (650) 367-7974.

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Best. Exhibit. Ever.

If you’re not lucky enough to live in San Francisco, this exhibit is worth a trip to the City by the Bay. Well worth it.

The show, which runs till October 28, is Rene Magritte: The Fifth Season. It is exclusive to San Francisco Museum of Modern Art and will not tour. Two other things make it worth the journey:

One is Magritte. More than any other artist—including Escher and Dali—he alters reality by painting hyper-realistically. When he paints a giant shaving brush, every hair on that brush stands out. His rocks look like rocks; mountains like mountains. Once that’s done, he bends that reality . . . and your mind.

The other is that this brilliantly put-together exhibit ends with its own reality bending, what Magritte might have done if he’d lived in the Digital Age.

Best. Exhibit. Ever.

Don’t. Miss. It.

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Have we got a tip for you!

On your next trip to San Francisco, you’ll be tempted to eat at State Bird Provisions, named the best new restaurant in the country. You’ll either wait a month or more for a reservation or wait what feels like a month or more outside, in line, hoping for a table.

We ate there but didn’t like it much at all. The combination of ingredients and spices in most dishes made little sense to our eyes or our taste buds. And featuring Rice Krispies as an innovative ingredient left our dining experience less than impressive.

But. Right next door is its sister restaurant, The Progress. No line, no breakfast cereal. And seriously wonderful food. The chef knows his ingredients, the bartenders know their mixology, the waiters know their menu. It’s a delight.

Not a cheap delight. Oysters are $3 each. Halibut is $32. Abalone’s $36. And deserts run $10-12.

But. It’s a worthy splurge. Your taste buds will tingle. Your stomach will thank your mouth. You’re in the hands of true professionals who are intent on giving you a memorable experience, a memorable San Francisco experience.

Of special note: the bowl of forest gifts—roasted morels. Perfect taste of woodland wonder for $23. Stinging nettle & ricotta ravioli with black trumpets and apple cider ‘saba’. The ravioli is melt-on-your-tongue tender, and you can taste each individual ingredient in the dish. Alaskan halibut with fava beans. It’s as tasty in your mouth as it is beautiful to your eyes. $32. And the chocolate torte with strawberries and pistachio. Meal-ending sweet deliciousness.

Three more tips: If there’s just two of you, skip the platters so you can taste more dishes. And sit at the bar. Conversation with the mixologists and the lively patrons just adds to the pleasure of the evening. And order with sharing in mind. The servings may not look large, but they’re rich and filling, and the tastes are to be savored, not gorged.

The Progress:  (415) 673-1294, 1525 Fillmore St, San Francisco, CA 94115, http://statebirdsf.com.

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